Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Extra Plat
This year, Audemars Piguet is going back to its roots with a watch to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Jumbo, the first Royal Oak in yellow gold, unveiled in 1977. This peerless icon has a vintage look with a tone-on-tone aesthetic, 18-karat yellow gold case and petite tapisserie champagne dial. The 39 mm diameter of the new Royal Oak Extra Thin is identical to that of its forebear. Although considered oversized at the time, these days it is resolutely contemporary. Mechanically, the anniversary model runs on the same movement as the original version: the extra-thin automatic calibre 2121 with date, which measures no thicker than 3.05 mm.
Carl F. Bucherer – Manero Flyback
The timeless and elegant Manero collection by Carl F. Bucherer now includes a flyback chronograph in warm tones. Like the celebratory drink itself, the dial sparkles with subtle gradations of light and shade. The minutes track and two subdials are in contrasting shades of gold. The inset small seconds display at 9 o’clock and the stop minutes at 3 o’clock, along with the peripheral chapter ring with tachymetric scale, underline the three-dimensional depth of the dial. The cameo is completed by finely bevelled applied hour markers which pick up the rose gold of the hands. As its name suggests, the chronograph function of the Manero Flyback provides its wearer with the ability to time a second event, even if the chronograph is already engaged. This is achieved simply by pressing the zero reset pusher while the counters are running. The 43 mm rose gold case houses the mechanical self-winding calibre CFB 1970 by Carl F. Bucherer.
Montblanc 1858 – Chronograph Tachymeter Édition Limitée 100
Bronze, for many years appreciated for little other than its durability, has recently become phenomenally popular with watchmakers. And now it’s Montblanc’s turn to follow the fashion, with a limited edition inspired by Minerva chronographs from the 1930s and ’40s. The 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition 100 comes with a sunburst champagne dial to complement the bronze case. This combination of colours and finishes gives the watch a low-contrast monochromatic look that accentuates its volume. The attention is consequently drawn to the details, such as the rhodium-plated cathedral hands and the Arabic numerals in the same typeface as the original, highlighting the vintage style of this timepiece. Other historic details borrowed from the original Minerva chronograph include the period Montblanc logo and the cognac-coloured alligator strap by Montblanc Pelleteria in Florence. Inside the 44 mm case lies a hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement, the calibre MB M16.29 with column wheel, horizontal clutch and V-shaped chronograph bridge. It beats at 18,000 vph, providing a power reserve of 50 hours. The movement, which can be seen through the sapphire caseback, has the typical design of the calibre 17.39 from the 1930s which inspired it. Only the finishes are different from the original.