Among the 50 timepieces that have been specially created for this year’s Only Watch charity auction, all of which are unique, there are two that stand out in particular. One is the “Carpe Diem”, powered by the first production AgenGraphe® movement that was introduced this year in chronographs by Fabergé and Singer Reimagined. The Carpe Diem is not only completely unique as a timepiece, it is the first-ever one to be branded Agenhor – the company of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht that is behind this revolutionary new movement – and has been encased in a design by students from the Geneva University of Art and Design. The other is a watch born of a collaboration between no fewer than 16 WOSTEP alumni: Stephen Forsey, Bart Grönefeld, Tim Grönefeld, Marco Koskinen, Stewart Lesemann, Marko Makinen, Stephen McDonnell, John McGonigle, Maarten Pieters, Clas-Henrik Pihl, Jouni Polanen, Mika Saikku, Stepan Sarpaneva, Peter Speake-Marin, Kari Voutilainen and Simo Ylitalo. This is the first WOSTEP school watch ever to be offered for sale to an independent individual who has not studied at WOSTEP.
Forty-eight watch brands, from Armin Strom to Zenith, have created one-off watches in support of the Only Watch charity, an initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, which has so far raised over 25 million euros in aid of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research. This year’s sale will be held on Saturday 11th November at 2.30pm in Geneva, where the unique Only Watch timepieces will be auctioned by Christie’s.
We will come back to many of the unique watches on offer individually, but for a taste of what is to come, we single out a couple of watches from each of the extremes in terms of their potential valuations.
Breguet Classique 7715 in-line perpetual calendar
This one-of-a-kind model shows the perpetual calendar information in an inline configuration for optimum legibility and is the only Breguet model to do so. The silvered gold dial is engine-turned by hand and uses Breguet’s traditional “Clous de Paris” (hobnail) decoration. The self-winding movement powering this Only Watch special model can be admired through a transparent a sapphire crystal case back.
Breguet Classique 7715 in-line perpetual calendar © Breguet
Patek Philippe Ref. 5208T-010
Any unique Patek Philippe reference will get collectors salivating. At Only Watch 2015 the Ref. 5016A-010 sold for ten times its low estimate as auctioneer Aurel Bacs eked out the bids to a staggering 7.3 million Swiss francs. Ref. 5208T-010 is the first and only version of this monopusher chronograph minute-repeater tourbillon with perpetual calendar ever produced in titanium, a metal very rarely used by Patek Philippe. With an equally unique hand engine-turned “carbon fibre” decoration on the dial and a blue Cordura strap, it will also be difficult for Patek Philippe aficionados to find a watch that better combines the brand’s traditional craftsmanship with an understated sporty look. All eyes will be on the record books once again.
Ref. 5208T-010 © Patek Philippe
While the Patek Philippe model at Only Watch 2015 sold for ten times its estimate, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay One sold for one hundred times its estimate. Using the standard catalogue price for a unique piece undoubtedly helped to achieve this huge multiple, but a Tudor selling for 350,000 Swiss francs is still impressive. Tudor is all out to repeat the achievement by offering another Black Bay One, once again with its catalogue price as the estimate (4,500-5,500 Swiss francs) but this time with the brand’s sought-after bronze case and, for the extra unique touch, a left-handed configuration with the crown at 9 o’clock. Furthermore, the lucky owner will get the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit Tudor’s Headquarters in Geneva, including travel expenses. Not bad for a company that does not offer factory visits!
Black Bay Bronze One 7925/001 © Tudor