The new Ref. 6006G Calatrava is one of Patek Philippe’s debuts for Baselworld 2017. It has an analog date and a seconds subdial, features that pay special tribute to the caliber 240 movement’s 40th anniversary. Notwithstanding the stringency of its graphic design, the dial has a subtle tongue-in-cheek eccentricity: the unorthodox position of the subsidiary seconds dial between 4 and 5 o’clock. The reason for this is a design peculiarity of the caliber 240 PS movement. It was praised when Patek Philippe, in 1991, presented its ultra-thin self-winding Calatrava Ref. 5000 model with a seconds subdial that became an unmistakably distinctive feature of the model family.
The new Calatrava Ref. 6006 in 18K white gold replaces the watches of the 6000 series launched in 2005. Subtly reworked, it further enhances the elegance of it sleek geometric design vocabulary. On the one hand, the classic round white-gold case was enlarged by 2 mm to 39 mm, giving it extra prominence on the wrist. At the same time, the larger diameter adds elegance to the case, highlighting its slender proportions. This, it offers even more space for a larger dial, encouraging the designers and dial production specialists to pull out all the stops.
What remains unchanged: the two-tone graphic concept, the uncluttered markings with plain Arabic numerals as well as excellently readable analog date with a scale on the outer circumference of the dial. Readily visible and always a worth a glance: the subsidiary seconds dial in its asymmetric position between 4 and 5 o’clock. Originality lies in the details. For example in ebony black and silver for the dials, or in the differentiate finissage of the individual circles. The center is black and glistens with its fine sunburst finish, while the silvery minute circle is delicately guilloched and printed with black minute and five-minute markers. The outer edge of the dial is contiguously ebony black but structured in two different textures: the date circle has a sunburst pattern, the hour circle is sublimely guilloched. And the silvery seconds subdial stands between 4 and 5 o’clock like a light in the darkness. The hour and minute hands were also modified. They are longitudinally pierced and white-lacquered baton-style hands that are perceptibly broader yet still look very lightweight. Additionally, the date hand is now tipped with a red- lacquered arrow that precisely points at the date numeral. It replaces the former lunar crescent.
This time window is framed by a broad, mirror-polished bezel as befits a classic Calatrava case in 18K white gold. Its sapphire-crystal case back presents attractive views from any angle as well. The bridge side of the lavishly finished caliber 240 PS C movement with polished chamfers, parallel Geneva striping, gold-filled engravings and the recessed 22K gold minirotor that displays an engraved Calatrava cross. The highly precise movement has a rate tolerance between -3 and +2 seconds per day.
The shiny black Alligator strap with large square scales complements the distinctive elegance of the watch. It is secured with a fold-over clasp in 18K white gold.