I figured it might be interesting to show both versions from the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon side-by-side. Including that standard version that this is actually the ref. 89000/000R-9655 along with the 14-Day Tourbillon Openworked ref. 89010/000P-9935 that’s new for 2014. While basically exactly the same watch, the Openworked version doesn’t have traditional dial along with a highly skeletonized movement. As the situation and movement are identical, the 2 watches have completely different personas (and costs).
Everything begins with Vacheron Constantin’s in-house made quality 2260 (the 2260 SQ within the Openworked version). This can be a fantastic movement that’s both beautiful and exclusive, in addition to rather easy to accept. If you’ll want a tourbillon, you might as well get one having a lengthy energy reserve (and indicator to exhibit it). How lengthy may be the energy reserve? Well, the title from the watch should make that rather apparent. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon includes a full week of energy reserve, that is about 336 hrs. I actually do hope it’s solid precision throughout the majority of that point. Actually, this really is possibly a long energy reserve tourbillon-based watch having a single mainspring barrel.
Bearing the Seal of Geneva, the movement is pretty top notch in pedigree and construction. The symmetry of not only the dial layout, but of the movement itself is impressive and attractive. The movement operates at 2.5Hz (18,800 bph) and has a relatively efficient 231 parts. The tourbillon cage itself is also a standout item of attractiveness with its Maltese Cross motif.
In the 2260 SQ (squellete, or “skeleton”) form, the movement takes on a totally different character altogether, even though its features and performance are identical to that of the standard 2260. What is different is the amount of attention it receives from specialized hands as it has fully skeletonized and engraved bridges. That means that all potentially excess metal is removed to allow for a view into as much of the movement as possible, but also that the available surfaces are in many faces decorated with engravings.
The unique thing about the engravings on the 2260 SQ movement is their aesthetic design. They seem to combine traditional forms and lines with something more modern that, in a sense, resembles those “tribal tattoos,” but in a really refined way. What is further interesting is the design of the bridges which swoop and curve with grace and poise.
From the traditional (ahem… “traditionnelle”) perspective, the non-skeletonized Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon is much more legible and comfy in the design. This really is Vacheron Constantin in their best and many comfortable, having a dial that mixes simple features as well as an opening to some complex mechanism. All of the hands and markers are very well-proportioned, and also the indications like the energy reserve scale are simple to read. You, obviously, need to love the dauphine hands that are simple to place. Focus on the Openworked form of the dial is a little different.
2014 for Vacheron Constantin really was about producing Openworked (skeletonized) versions of existing models. I really can’t think about anything completely new they arrived on the scene that wasn’t a brand new undertake a current classic. That’s OK though, because nowadays we’ve learned to not expect completely new stuff constantly. I begin to see the 14-Day Tourbillon Openworked like a more arty and collector-oriented type of a watch that actually did not need any work. As the standard model is ideal for a regular high-finish put on, the Openworked model is all about an affection of methods decorative arts can meld using the horological realm of Vacheron Constantin.
Thus, expecting the same precise level of legibility is not practical. Yes, having a totally skeletonized dial is going to infringe on one’s ability to read the power reserve indicator hand (for instance). Though it does have a dedicated hour and minute scale ring around the periphery of the dial, so it isn’t exactly one of those markerless watch dials.
Around the wrist, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon is really a generously sized dress watch at 42mm wide. Here you go offered in 18k pink gold, as the 14-Day Tourbillon Openworked is provided in solid platinum. Vacheron Constantin is among individuals “serious” and historic watchmakers therefore we really don’t have to discuss the company in addition to that. There’s an image sense of conservatism in lots of of the watches, which either totally attracts a collector, or has a tendency to bore them-it truly is dependent around the individual.
Searching once more at both versions from the 14-Day Tourbillon, you may also observe exactly the same core design could be appropriate to have an (costly) suit, as well as in its Openworked form is equipped to possibly an (costly) tuxedo. The skeletonization process is both time intensive and hard, so an extremely drastic improvement in cost isn’t surprising. Cost for that Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbilon is $297,800 and $362,300 for that Openworked model.
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